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First British tourists allowed back into North Korea tell BBC what they saw

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Don’t insult the leaders. Don’t insult the ideology. And don’t judge.

These are the rules tour guides read out to Western tourists as they prepare to drive across the border into North Korea, arguably the most secretive and repressive country in the world.

Then there is the practical information. No phone signal, no internet, no cash machines.

“The North Koreans aren’t robots. They have opinions, goals, and a sense of humour. And in our briefing we encourage people to listen to and understand them,” says Rowan Beard, who runs Young Pioneer Tours, one of two Western companies which resumed trips to the country last week, after a five-year hiatus.

Rowan Beard/Young Pioneer Tours A man in a hat and sunglasses holds a stamped piece of paper and a navy Australian passport
Rowan and a handful of other tour leaders have been allowed to restart operations

North Korea sealed its borders at the outset of the pandemic, shutting out diplomats, aid workers and travellers, and making it nearly impossible to know what was happening there.

Since then, it has further isolated itself from most of the world, relying on support from Russia and China. Many doubted whether Westerners would ever be allowed back.

But after years of cajoling and several false starts, Rowan and some other tour leaders were given the green light to restart operations. He pulled together a group of eager travellers in just five hours, desperate to not miss the opportunity. Most were vloggers and travel addicts, some wanting to tick the final country off their list, along with the odd North Korea enthusiast.

Last Thursday the tourists, from the UK, France, Germany and Australia, drove over the border from China into the remote area of Rason for a four-night trip.

Joe Smith A photo of the exterior of a blue food store in North Korea. The exterior has green titles and there is a woman looking out of a window
Tourists from the UK, France, Germany and Australia drove over the border for a four-night trip

Among them was 28-year-old British YouTuber Mike O’Kennedy. Even with its reputation, he was startled by the extreme level of control. As with all trips to North Korea, the tourists were escorted by local guides, who followed a strict, pre-approved schedule. It included carefully choreographed trips to a beer factory, a school, and a new, fully stocked pharmacy.

Ben Weston, one of the tour leaders from Suffolk, likened visiting North Korea to “being on a school trip”. “You can’t leave the hotel without the guides,” he said.

“A couple of times I even had to let them know when I wanted to use the bathroom,” said Mike. “I’ve never had to do that anywhere in the world.”

Despite the chaperoning, Mike was able to spot snippets of real life. “Everyone was working, it didn’t feel like anyone was just hanging out. That was kind of bleak to see.”

On his trip to the school, a group of eight-year-olds performed a dance to animations of ballistic missiles hitting targets. A video of the spectacle shows girls and boys with red neckties, singing, while explosions flare on a screen behind them.

Mike O'Kennedy Young children stand on stage in front of a large screen with animations of ballistic missiles
Mike saw a group of eight-year-olds performing a dance to animations of ballistic missiles

For now, tourists are being kept well away from the capital Pyongyang. Greg Vaczi from Koryo Tours, the other tour company allowed back in, admits the current itinerary lacks the “big-hitting monuments” of Pyongyang. He suspects authorities have chosen Rason as their guinea pig because the area is relatively contained and easy to control.

Set up as a special economic zone, to trial new financial policies, it operates as a mini capitalist enclave inside an otherwise socialist state. Chinese businesspeople run joint enterprises with North Koreans, and can travel in and out fairly freely.

Joe Smith, a seasoned North Korea traveller and former writer for the specialist North Korea platform NK News, was there on his third trip. “I feel like the more times you visit the less you know. Each time you get a little peek behind the curtain, which just leaves you with more questions,” he said.

Joe’s highlight was a surprise off-agenda visit to a luxury goods market, where people were selling jeans and perfumes, along with fake Louis Vuitton handbags and Japanese washing machines, probably imported from China. Here, the tourists were not allowed to take photos – an attempt to hide this consumer bubble from the rest of the country, they suspected.

“This was the only place people weren’t expecting us,” Joe said. “It felt messy and real; a place North Koreans actually go. I loved it.”

Joe Smith A man in black trousers, black jeans and purple fleece stands in front of a stone fence by a viewing platform. Behind him you can see mountains, trees and the sea
Joe has visited North Korea four times

But according to the experienced tour leaders, the group’s movements were more restricted than on previous trips, with fewer opportunities to wander the streets, pop into a barbershop or supermarket, and talk to locals.

Covid was often cited as the reason, said Greg from Koryo Tours. “On the surface they are still concerned. Our luggage was disinfected at the border, our temperatures were taken, and about 50% of people are still wearing masks.” Greg cannot work out whether the fear is genuine, or an excuse to control people.

It is thought Covid hit North Korea hard, though it is difficult to know the extent of the suffering.

Local guides repeated the government line that the virus entered the country in a balloon sent over from South Korea, and was swiftly eradicated in 90 days. But Rowan, who has been to North Korea more than 100 times, sensed that Rason had been impacted by the tough Covid regulations. A lot of Chinese businesses had closed, he said, and their workers had left.

Even Joe, the experienced North Korea traveller, commented on how dilapidated the buildings were. “Places were dimly lit and there was no heating, apart from in our hotel rooms,” he said, noting a trip to a cold, dark and deserted art gallery. “It felt like they opened the doors just for us.”

Mike O'Kennedy A person dressed in black is cycling on a bike in front of a large building and piles of rubbles. There are tree-topped hills in the background
Some tourists thought Rason – the area they visited – looked dilapidated, with “awful” roads and run-down buildings

The regime’s photographs might make North Korea look clean and shiny, Joe said, but in person you realise “the roads are awful, the pavements are wobbly, and the buildings are weirdly constructed”. His hotel room was old-fashioned and filthy, he said, resembling “his grandma’s living room”. The whole window was cracked.

“They’ve had five years to fix things. North Koreans are so sensitive about what they show tourists. If this is the best they can show, I dread to think what else is out there”, he said. Most of the country is kept well hidden, with more than four in 10 people believed to be undernourished and needing help.

Joe Smith A hotel room with two beds, yellow floral carpet, potted plants, a framed landscape picture and windows with decorative blinds
Joe said his hotel room resembled “his grandma’s living room”

One of the few chances tourists in North Korea get to interact with local people is through their guides, who sometimes speak English. On these recent trips they were surprisingly well-informed, despite the regime’s intense propaganda machine and information blockade. This is probably because they speak to the Chinese businesspeople who come and go, said Greg.

They knew about Trump’s tariffs and the war in Ukraine – even that North Korean troops were involved. But when Joe showed a photo from Syria, his guide was unaware President Assad had been toppled. “I carefully explained that sometimes when people don’t like their leader, they rise up and force them out, and at first he didn’t believe me.”

Such conversations need to be delicately handled. Strict laws prevent North Koreans from speaking freely. Ask or reveal too much and the tourists might put their guide or themselves at risk.

Mike O'Kennedy Mike O'Kennedy stands with three North Korean tour guides, with a statue of two men in the background and trees
Mike said that conversations with the guides about international politics had to be handled carefully

Mike admits there were times this made him nervous. On a trip to a North Korea-Russia Friendship House, he was invited to write in the visitors’ book. “I went blank and wrote something like ‘I wish the world peace.’ Afterwards my guide told me that was an inappropriate thing to write. That made me paranoid,” he said.

“Generally, the guides did a great job of making us feel safe. There were just a couple of moments when I thought, this is bizarre.”

For Greg from Koryo Tours, these interactions bring a deeper purpose to North Korea tourism: “North Koreans get the chance to engage with foreigners. This allows them to come up with new ideas, which, in a country this closed, is so important.”

But tourism to North Korea is contentious, especially as travellers have been allowed back before aid workers and most Western diplomats, including the UK’s. Critics, including Joanna Hosaniak from the Citizens Alliance for North Korean Human Rights, argue these trips mainly benefit the regime.

“This is not like tourism in other poor countries, where local people benefit from the extra income. The vast majority of the population don’t know these tourists exist. Their money goes to the state and ultimately towards its military,” she said.

One conversation has stuck in YouTuber Mike’s head. During his trip to the school, he was surprised when a girl, after meeting him, said she hoped to visit the UK one day. “I didn’t have the heart to tell her that her chances were very, very slim,” he said.

Taken From BBC News

https://www.bbc.com/news/articles/c0jggdnej0do

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UK Labels Israel “Genocidal” and Bans Its Products

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Paris (Imran Y. CHOUDHRY) :- Former Press Secretary to the President, Former Press Minister to the Embassy of Pakistan to France, Former MD, SRBC Mr. Qamar Bashir analysis : The world stands at a critical juncture in its relationship with Israel. For decades, the international community has watched as Palestinians have been systematically displaced, their homes destroyed, and their rights violated under the guise of security concerns. The recent announcement by the United Kingdom government to impose comprehensive sanctions on Israeli settlements in the occupied West Bank represents a watershed moment—one that challenges the long-standing impunity with which Israel has operated. These measures are not merely diplomatic gestures but essential tools for justice, peace, and the preservation of human dignity.

Ironically it was the UK which spearheaded the foundation of Israel in 1948, and was instrumental in ethnically cleansing 750,000 Palestinians from their homes in Majdal Ashkelan to establish the state of Israel. These Palestinians were forcibly removed, placed in prison camps, and eventually dumped into the Gaza Strip, where they have been permanently warehoused under siege conditions.

However, as repentance of its past crimes, the encouraging British government’s decision to ban imports from illegal Israeli settlements, impose strict arms export controls, and sanction individuals involved in settler violence represents a courageous stand for international law, is a step in the right direction.. These settlements are unequivocally illegal under the Fourth Geneva Convention, which prohibits an occupying power from transferring parts of its own civilian population into territory it occupies. For too long, the international community has paid lip service to this principle while allowing Israel to continue its expansion unabated.

Foreign Secretary Ed Miliband’s characterization of settler activities as “ethnic cleansing” is not hyperbole but an accurate description of reality. When Israeli settlers, often with state protection, systematically drive Palestinian communities from their land through violence, intimidation, and the destruction of homes and olive groves, this is ethnic cleansing by any reasonable definition. The UK’s sanctions send a clear message: such practices have consequences, and the era of impunity is ending.

Israel’s reaction to the UK sanctions has been telling. President Herzog and Prime Minister Netanyahu have condemned the measures, claiming that sanctions are not the solution and that dialogue is the only path forward. Yet this appeal to dialogue is fundamentally disingenuous when Israel itself has consistently rejected dialogue in favor of military action. The same government that has flattened Gaza, destroyed southern Lebanon, occupied the Golan Heights, and continues to expand settlements in the West Bank cannot credibly lecture others about the virtues of peaceful negotiation.

The Israeli government’s countermeasures—closing the British consulate in Jerusalem, expelling UK representatives from coordination centers, and denying entry to British officials—reveal a government more interested in retaliation than reconciliation. This is the behavior of a state that believes it can act with complete impunity, that international law applies to others but not to itself. The irony of Israel’s position becomes even more apparent when considering its enthusiastic support for US sanctions against Iran. If sanctions are illegitimate when applied to Israel, why are they legitimate when applied to others?

What makes the current moment particularly significant is the growing global consensus around the need to hold Israel accountable. Canada and France have already implemented matching bans on settlement trade, and other nations are expected to follow. This is not a fringe movement but a mainstream diplomatic position grounded in international law and basic human rights principles.

The United States, Israel’s most steadfast ally, is increasingly isolated in its unconditional support. The proposed congressional resolution declaring that the United States will not aid Israel or enter into wars on its behalf represents a significant shift in American public sentiment. Even within the US, there is growing recognition that uncritical support for Israel has damaged American interests, destabilized the Middle East, and put the United States on the wrong side of history.

The call for boycott has extended beyond governments to include religious authorities and civil society organizations. Christian leaders, including Archbishop J. Black, have called for boycott of Israeli products, drawing parallels to the successful international campaign against apartheid South Africa. Their position is rooted not in anti-Semitism but in a profound commitment to justice—the recognition that any system built on racial or religious supremacy must be dismantled.

The boycott movement has practical implications. Consumers are being urged to check labels and avoid products from Israeli settlements, which are often sold under supermarket own brands or other disguises. Items ranging from fruits and vegetables to beauty products, diamonds, and plastic goods should be scrutinized for Israeli origins. The economic impact of such boycotts, if sustained, could be substantial—UK trade with Israel amounts to approximately $1.6 billion annually.

The UK’s leadership in this matter provides an opportunity for Muslim countries to take decisive action. While individual boycotts have existed in some Muslim nations, coordinated government-level sanctions would send an even stronger message. Islamic countries should follow the British example by imposing comprehensive bans on Israeli products, regardless of how they are branded or marketed. They should also consider severing diplomatic, economic, and cultural ties with Israel until it complies with international law.

This is not about targeting Jewish people—a charge that Israeli leaders cynically weaponize to deflect legitimate criticism. It is about opposing a state that has institutionalized discrimination, collective punishment, and territorial expansion. The vast majority of pro-Palestinian advocates, whether Muslim, Christian, Jewish, or secular, are motivated by a commitment to human rights, not by prejudice.

No discussion of Israel’s accountability would be complete without addressing the United States’ role as its primary enabler. For decades, the US has provided Israel with billions of dollars in annual aid, diplomatic cover at the United Nations, and military support that has been used to commit atrocities against Palestinians. This relationship has not only facilitated Israeli aggression but has also undermined US credibility in the Middle East and the global South.

The American people, who are hardworking, peace-loving, and committed to justice, must pressure their representatives to end this unconditional support. Individual Americans can participate in boycotts, campaign for congressional action, and raise their voices in solidarity with Palestinians. The Israeli government’s increasingly extreme rhetoric, including calls for a “greater Israel” from the Nile to the Euphrates, should alarm all Americans who value stability and international law.

The South African anti-apartheid movement demonstrated that sustained international pressure can bring about change. Sanctions, boycotts, and diplomatic isolation were instrumental in forcing the apartheid regime to negotiate an end to its discriminatory system. The same strategy can and must be applied to Israel.

Making Israel a pariah state serves multiple purposes. First, it strips away the illusion that Israel’s actions are legitimate, forcing the Israeli public to confront the reality of their government’s policies. Second, it creates tangible consequences for continued occupation and settlement expansion. Third, it signals to the world that the era of unconditional tolerance for Israeli atrocities is over.

The UK’s sanctions against Israeli settlements are not an act of hostility but an expression of hope—hope that international law can be restored, hope that justice can prevail over might, hope that the Palestinian people will finally receive the recognition and rights they have been denied for three generations.

Justice for Palestinians is not about choosing sides in a conflict; it is about upholding fundamental principles of human dignity, equality, and the rule of law. Israel must now confront the fact that its political establishment has become a pariah in the community of nations. The question is not whether Israel will change—it is whether the world will have the courage to demand that change. History will judge us all by our response to this defining moment. The time for action is now, and the world must recognize Palestine as a state and ensure its borders are protected. Only through collective action can we ensure that justice, truth, and humanity prevail.

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Ahmadiyya Muslim Community distance organisation from “Ahmadi Religion of Light and Peace” After Media Confusion

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After the UK based religious group ‘The Ahmadi Religion of Peace and Light” was raided by police, with nine arrests for modern slavery and child marriage, the Ahmadiyya Muslim Community has issued a formal statement distancing itself from the organisation.

Due to the similarity in name, what followed was a wave of public confusion triggered by recent media reports.

A clarification statement issued by the UK president of the Ahmadiyya Muslim Community, Mr Rafiq Hayat, explains that the organisations are entirely unrelated and asked media outlets to ensure this distinction is made clear in all future reporting — including previously published online material.

The Community has proposed a standard clarification line for journalists: “The Ahmadi Religion of Peace and Light is a separate organisation and is not associated with the Ahmadiyya Muslim Community that has a historical presence in the UK and whose members are known as Ahmadis.”

Whilst the BBC has already issued a clarification, this statement encourages other media outlets to also do so, suggesting that both friends and stakeholders of the community as well as members of the community have been confused by the media coverage.

The Ahmadiyya Community which has been established in the UK since 1913 and built London’s first mosque in 1926 which is still functioning, have long established themselves as a Muslim sect which abides by the motto “Love for All, Hatred for None.”

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World Famous French International Agricultural Show Started in Paris

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Paris (Imran Y. CHOUDHRY):- The World Famous International Agricultural Show has showcased various agricultural sectors. Paris will play host to three complementary exhibitions: the Paris International Agricultural Show (SIA), the Agricultural Technologies and Solutions Exhibition (SIA’PRO), and the Concours Général Agricole.

The 2026 Paris International Agricultural Show opened its doors with a call to support the agricultural sector, with a particular focus on the bovine sector.
Among the highlights, the final of the Ovinpiades des Jeunes Bergers — the Young Shepherds’ Competition — and the opening of the Concours Général Agricole. Côte d’Ivoire is this year’s guest of honour, showcasing its agricultural innovations. Visitors around the world can explore new spaces such as AGRI’CULTURE, featuring screenings, live performances and a themed bookshop. A varied programme of activities for children and a fishmongers’ competition further enrich the event.

French President Emmanuel Macron attended the opening day and inauguration of the 62nd International Agricultural Fair (Salon de l’Agriculture).

The launch of the Year of Pastoralism at the Grand Ring and the most prestigious Concours Général Agricole wine competition, featuring 100% blind tastings. Côte d’Ivoire, the guest country, celebrates its key sectors: cocoa, coffee, forestry and innovation, through a vibrant and immersive pavilion. On the new additions front, the AGRI’LIBRAIRIE in the AGRI’CULTURE pavilion offers over 800 titles and author meet-and-greet sessions. Today’s programme includes the Texel breed competition, herbal infusion workshops, and Gargantua demonstrations and tastings. Behind the scenes, preparations are underway for SIA’PRO, with professional networking sessions.

The horses and donkeys featuring shows, demonstrations, a pop-up pony club and a special performance by the Cadre Noir. Today’s highlights include a live cooking show with Redouane Bougheraba and Top Chef winner Quentin Mauro, as well as the official launch of Terres de Jim. New this year: guided tours for visually impaired visitors and the opening of SIA’PRO, the professional trade show dedicated to agricultural technologies and solutions. The 3rd GAIA hackathon also kicks off, focusing on AI and agroecology. Finally, the Maison des Vétos invites families to discover careers in animal health.

Women in agriculture as part of the International Year of Women Farmers, featuring testimonials and discussions on their role and ongoing inequalities. A major highlight is the exceptional Cadre Noir de Saumur gala on the Grand Ring, followed by a signing session. Entertainment includes a first-ever classical concert at the CGA restaurant, the official crowning of Miss and Mister Agri, and tastings at the Pacific Village. Pastoralism also takes center stage with the immersive “Transhumance 360°” exhibition. Finally, the Vendée brioche makes its experimental debut at the Concours Général Agricole.

At this exhibition Pakistani Ambassador Madam Mumtaz Zahra Baloch also visited and represented Pakistan at the Ministerial Session on the sidelines of the exposition. During the visit, Ambassador Baloch held constructive exchanges with farmers, innovators, and industry leaders to explore new avenues for cooperation between Pakistan and France in modern agriculture and sustainable agri-technology.

This year, the Paris International Agricultural Show is marked by crises due to climate disasters, trade tensions and unstable incomes, as well as animal disease outbreaks, which have led to there being no cows or poultry at this edition.

Photos @ Imran Y. CHOUDHRY

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