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The Japanese island that was saved by art

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Once polluted and suffering from depopulation, Naoshima has become Japan’s hottest contemporary art enclave – and there are signs that life there may be finally rebounding.

Shinichi Kobayashi has idyllic memories of growing up on Naoshima, one of the nearly 3,000 islands scattered across Japan’s Seto Inland Sea.

“We would go clam digging,” said the 75-year-old, who became the island’s mayor in 2018. “During the summer, I would spend entire days swimming in the sea, catching turban shells and fish, getting deeply tanned.”

“I don’t recall seeing any foreign visitors,” he added.

Kobayashi’s home island is no longer off the tourist radar – thanks to the power of modern art. Since the 1989 launch of what has become Benesse Art Site Naoshima  – a multi-island art initiative initiated by billionaire Sōichirō Fukutake – more than 500,000 visitors now flock annually to Naoshima, whose fishing villages, rice fields and craggy coastlines have become the canvas for mesmerising art installations and ambitious museums. In 2010, the Setouchi Triennale launched. The contemporary art festival – which is now one of Japan’s foremost international art events – attracts roughly one million visitors to the region each Triennale season. The sixth edition kicked off on 18 April this year and will run until 9 November; the longest Setouchi Triennale ever.

Forty years ago, few would have imagined such a transformation. In the early 20th Century, Naoshima had cemented its reputation as a copper smelting hub, but by the 1980s, it was heavily polluted; the raw, rocky land around the Mitsubishi Materials industrial plant denuded of vegetation. The population dwindled dramatically as the young left to seek opportunities in larger cities. 

Fukutake’s father, publishing magnate Tetsuhiko Fukutake, and Naoshima’s then-mayor, Chikatsugu Miyake, aspired to revitalise the bleak area by founding a children’s campground. Tetsuhiko died before the project was completed, leaving it to his son. Shocked by Naoshima’s pollution, the younger Fukutake purchased a large swathe of the island’s unblighted south side. His new plan: to transform the region by erecting attractive museums against its serene coastal landscapes. To enact his vision, he tapped Osaka-born architect Tadao Andō, who had become known for designing buildings that blended seamlessly into their surroundings.

“I was surprised by the idea and thought it would be difficult to achieve,” Andō said in a 2018 interview where he and Fukutake discussed the project’s origins. “It was so inconvenient! Who would come here?”

“This project began as an act of resistance,” explained Fukutake in the interview. “It was my conscious intention to build a kind of heaven on Earth – the very first paradise that harmonises art, nature and the local community.”  

Alamy Since 1992, the Benesse House Museum has been a haven for the works of today's leading contemporary artists (Credit: Alamy)
Since 1992, the Benesse House Museum has been a haven for the works of today’s leading contemporary artists (Credit: Alamy)

In 1989, Andō designed the Naoshima International Camp, fulfilling the elder Fukutake’s vision. In 1992 came the Benesse House Museum, a hotel and contemporary art museum housing works by luminaries including Bruce NaumanFrank Stella and Hiroshi Sugimoto.

The island’s evolution into a globally renowned open-air museum and international contemporary arts hub was all but assured in 1994, when Yayoi Kusama’s yellow and black-spotted Pumpkin was added to the landscape’s growing collection of public artworks. This iconic work has since become emblematic of Naoshima itself.

“[The] initial goal wasn’t to promote tourism,” said Soichiro Fukutake’s son, Hideaki, who now helms the Fukutake Foundation. “But rather to revitalise the region through art and help locals feel a renewed sense of pride in their hometown.”

But the mission hasn’t just been about building anew. Since 1998 and the start of the Art House Project in the nearby fishing village of Honmura, “using what exists to create what is to be” has been a guiding principle, leading to many defunct buildings on Naoshima and the neighbouring islands of Teshima and Inujima to be reborn as art. These include two projects by artist Shinrō Ōtake: Haisha, an old dentist’s building transformed with collage, reclaimed materials and a partial giant copy of the Statue of Liberty; and Naoshima Bath “I♥︎湯”, a public bathhouse now plastered in a patchwork of patterned tiles on the exterior to the full-scale model of an elephant striding across the dividing wall between the male and female bathing sections.

Alamy The dynamic Naoshima Bath "I♥︎湯" installation started its life as an abandoned bathhouse (Credit: Alamy)
The dynamic Naoshima Bath “I♥︎湯” installation started its life as an abandoned bathhouse (Credit: Alamy)

Some locals were initially sceptical about the general appeal of such artworks. In the 1980s Toshio Hamaguchi worked for Naoshima’s town office and guided executives from Fukutake’s company around the island when the International Camp was first being planned. “I did not expect that we would attract many people by such a project, and particularly by art,” recalls the retiree. “However, we have so many visitors thanks to art now.”

Since his initial commissions on Naoshima, Andō has designed nine other projects on the island, including the Chichu Art Museum, of which a large portion is built directly into the earth; and the Naoshima New Museum of Art, opening 31 May, which will showcase contemporary art from Japan and Asia. The inaugural exhibition – titled From the Origin to the Future – will feature works by the likes of Japan’s Takashi Murakami and Makoto AidaCai Guo-Qiang from China and the Korean artist Do Ho Suh.

Like the Chichu Art Museum, the Naoshima New Museum of Art blends seamlessly with the environment by burying two of its three storeys beneath the ground. “It’s one of the most ambitious and exciting projects we’ve undertaken,” said Hideaki Fukutake.

The success of Benesse Art Site Naoshima in attracting visitors to a once-neglected location has been an inspiration for similar projects in other rural parts of Japan. Art Base Momoshima on the island of Momoshima is helmed by renowned conceptual artist Yukinori Yanagi, while on Ōmi-shima, another Inland Sea island, architect Toyō Itō has established the Toyō Itō Museum of Architecture.

As mayor, Kobayashi notes the economic benefits: “Thanks to the increasing number of visitors, guesthouses and restaurants have flourished, helping make everyday life more vibrant for the locals.”

He added: “That said, we’ve also seen some changes, like more people locking their doors, which wasn’t common in the past… For me, what matters most is that the residents can live cheerfully, energetically and happily.”

Threatening this is the island’s persistent issue of depopulation: Naoshima currently has 3,000 residents, around half the number it had in the 1980s. “Personally, I strongly wish to increase it,” said Kobayashi. “Even if just by one person.”

More like this: 

• How the bullet train transformed Japan

• How Japan’s tsunami-ravaged coastline is being transformed by hope

• Japan’s 97-year-old cherry blossom guardian  

However, there are glimmers of hope; a 2024 Asahi Shimbun article cited that though the island’s population was in decline in 2022, the number of newcomers has risen slightly but steadily each year since. Over the past five years, 500 people – mainly married urban couples in their 30s and 40s – moved to the island, attracted by its unique artsy beauty. Many Benesse Art Site Naoshima staff have relocated to the island while others have come to fill jobs in the booming hospitality industry – so much so that Naoshima is now facing a housing shortage. Mitsubishi Materials has also significantly cleaned up its copper smelting operations, improving the overall quality of life.

Speaking at a conference on Naoshima in 2023, Eriko Ōsaka, a respected curator and general director of The National Art Center, Tokyo, credited Benesse Art Site Naoshima organisers with changing the island’s image “from being a negative one to a positive one through the power of art”.

In Ōsaka’s opinion, visitors to Naoshima “can experience serendipity that they can find nowhere else and discover something unknown within themselves”. For her, the success of Benesse Art Site Naoshima means that some of those islanders who have moved away “will come back one day”.

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Art & Culture

‘There’s no other poem like it’: Why this Robert Burns classic is a masterpiece

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Tam O’Shanter is a rip-roaring tale of witches and alcohol, but it has hidden depths. On Burns Night this Sunday – and 235 years after the poem was published in 1791 – Scots everywhere may well be treated to a masterwork with a unique, universal appeal.

If you’re Scottish, or if you wish you were, then this Sunday is a red-letter day. Scotland’s greatest poet, Robert Burns, was born on 25 January 1759, and Burns Suppers are now held every year, all over the world, to mark his birthday. The guests drink whisky (not “whiskey”, please – that’s the Irish and US spelling), they eat haggis, tatties and neeps (don’t ask), and they hear some of the bard’s many ballads and poems. Ae Fond Kiss, To A Mouse and Auld Lang Syne are usually on the bill. And somebody may well recite Tam O’Shanter, a rip-roaring yarn about witchcraft and heavy drinking that was first published 235 years ago in 1791. It’s a poem that has even more to it than most Burns Supper regulars might realise.

Getty Images In the famous narrative poem Tam O'Shanter by Robert Burns a drunken farmer is pursued by shrieking witches (Credit: Getty Images)
In the famous narrative poem Tam O’Shanter by Robert Burns a drunken farmer is pursued by shrieking witches (Credit: Getty Images)

“Tam O’Shanter is Burns’s masterpiece, it really is,” says Pauline Mackay, professor of Robert Burns studies and cultural heritage at the University of Glasgow. “It’s one of his most popular works, so when you say it’s your favourite Burns poem, people say, ‘Urgh, that’s so obvious’. But actually, I’ve been studying it for many, many years, and it’s so multifaceted. Burns brought all of his considerable talents to bear on capturing what inspires him, what motivates him, and his own perception of humanity and human nature.”

And that’s not all. Robert Irvine, the editor of Burns: Selected Poems and Songs, notes that there is a darkness to the poem that goes beyond its spine-tingling descriptions of the devil and his minions. “There’s some weird stuff going on there,” he says.

Most of the revellers are ‘rigwoodie hags’, but one witch, Nannie, is young, attractive and scantily clad

The poem tells the mock-heroic tale of Tam O’Shanter, a farmer who spends as much time drinking as he does working. At the end of one market day in Ayr, he retires to the pub with his “ancient, trusty, drouthy crony” Souter Johnnie (ie, Johnnie the shoemaker), never mind that his wife Kate is waiting at home. It’s only after hours of boozing and flirting with the landlady that Tam finally sets off on his horse, Maggie. But it’s a dark and stormy night, so he has to hold on to his hat, and sing songs to keep up his spirits. “Whiles holding fast his gude blue bonnet; / Whiles crooning o’er some auld Scots sonnet.” This reference to a “blue bonnet”, incidentally, is why beret-like flat hats with pom-poms are called Tam O’Shanters.

When he approaches Alloway’s Auld Kirk, Tam notices that a diabolical party is underway inside: witches and warlocks are dancing, and the devil himself, Auld Nick, is playing the bagpipes. Most of the revellers are “rigwoodie hags”, but one witch, Nannie, is so young, attractive and scantily clad that Tam yells out the only words he speaks in the poem: “Weel done, Cutty-sark!” This cat call would later lend its name to the Cutty Sark, a 19th-Century clipper ship that can be visited in Greenwich, London. Roughly translated, it means: “Well done, Short Dress!”

Nannie and her cohorts aren’t pleased to hear it: Tam has to flee on horseback with a crowd of screeching witches in hot pursuit, “Wi’ mony an eldritch skriech and hollo”. Luckily for him, witches can’t cross running water, and the River Doon is nearby. Tam manages to race over the bridge to safety, but Maggie the horse isn’t quite so fortunate. Nannie grabs hold of her tail just as she steps on to the Brig O’ Doon, and – spoiler alert – she is left with “scarce a stump”.

Rude jokes and chilling imagery

Carruthers calls it a “fairly hackneyed ghost story plot”, but the way Burns tells his story means that “there’s no other poem like it in Scottish literature”. Tam O’Shanter is “incredibly rich, so visual, so carefully crafted and so well-paced”, Mackay tells the BBC. “There’s just so much in there: everything from the way Burns has absorbed and assimilated the landscape and folklore of Ayrshire where he was born, and Dumfriesshire where he was writing the poem, to his keen interest in the supernatural, to the various comments that he makes on the complexities of human relationships and gender. All of this is so fascinating.”

There are lines in Scots, and others in English. There are rude jokes, and there is chillingly macabre imagery. There are tributes to the joys of getting drunk with friends in a cosy pub: “Kings may be blest, but Tam was glorious. / O’er a’ the ills o’ life victorious!” And there are rueful philosophical musings on how transient those joys are: “But pleasures are like poppies spread, / You seize the flower, its bloom is shed.” Sometimes the narrator will address Tam himself: “O Tam, hadst thou but been sae wise, / As ta’en thou ain wife Kate’s advice!” At other times, he will address another character or the reader / listener – one reason, says Irvine, why the poem “lends itself to performance”, and has become a Burns Supper staple.

Getty Images Tam O'Shanter stumbles upon a demonic dance of witches and warlocks taking place in a ruined church (Credit: Getty Images)
Tam O’Shanter stumbles upon a demonic dance of witches and warlocks taking place in a ruined church (Credit: Getty Images)

In fact, there isn’t much that Burns doesn’t do in Tam O’Shanter – and he does it all in rhyming iambic tetrameter. “He’s showing off,” says Irvine. “He’s doing one thing, and saying ‘Hey, look, I can do this other thing as well.’ In his first volume of poems, he does that between one poem and the next. He adopts different verse genres, he switches from Scots to English, he borrows from all sorts of different traditions – both what we think of now as the folk tradition, and the literary traditions of England and Scotland. It’s a virtuoso display of all the different things that he can do. And in Tam O’Shanter, he’s doing all that within one poem.”

Appropriately for a Burns Supper centrepiece, Tam O’Shanter is a feast, its most satisfying ingredient being its fond and insightful portrait of a character described as “the universal everyman” by Prof Gerard Carruthers, the editor of The Oxford Handbook of Robert Burns. Burns is admired for his egalitarian politics, and even in his rollicking horror comedy, his sympathy for the common man shines through. “Tam O’Shanter is a poem of misdirection,” Carruthers tells the BBC. “Burns is saying: ‘Look at this! Look at the witch! Look at the horse!’ Whereas in fact the real thing that he is talking about is the way in which we’re incorrigible as human beings.” The poem glows with “ridicule and affection at the same time for Tam, and by extension for the human psyche in general”.

It’s a poem about humanity – the pleasures and the appetites, the challenges and the frailties – Gerard Carruthers

Burns – a notorious womaniser – is especially sharp on masculine foibles. “Burns knows the male mind,” says Carruthers. “He knows that men in a lot of ways are stupid wee boys.” On the other hand, says Mackay, women may recognise themselves in Tam O’Shanter, too. “It’s a poem about humanity – the pleasures and the appetites, the challenges and the frailties – and I think that’s one of the reasons why Burns is so universally popular. He talks about what it is to be a human being – and everything that we see in different places throughout his poetic oeuvre is somehow represented in this one poem.”

Getty Images Tam is chased by a young witch, Nannie, and narrowly escapes over the Brig o'Doon (Credit: Getty Images)
Tam is chased by a young witch, Nannie, and narrowly escapes over the Brig o’Doon (Credit: Getty Images)

Still, alongside its compassion, there is devilry of more than one kind in Tam O’Shanter. “The weird and disturbing thing about this poem is that Burns’s father, William Burnes, was a very pious and serious man who despaired of the libertine tendencies of his son,” says Irvine. “He organised repairs to Alloway Kirk when Burns and his brother were boys, and one of the reasons for that is that he wanted to be buried there – and he was. So, in 1784 Burns’s father was buried in Alloway churchyard, which Burns then makes famous as the site of a witches’ orgy. Was he getting revenge on his father for his disapproval of his eldest son?”

As well as everything else Burns is doing in Tam O’Shanter, it could be argued that he is almost literally dancing on his father’s grave. Anyone who hears it at a Burns Supper on Sunday will have plenty to chew on.

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Archaeological Seminar on Indus Valley Civilization of Pakistan in France

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Paris ( Imran Y. CHOUDHRY):- The Embassy of Pakistan organized an event on the archeological studies of the 5000-year-old Indus Valley Civilization with Dr. Aurore Didier, Director of the French Archaeological Mission of the Indus Bassin.

Representatives of the UNESCO World Heritage Center, the Agha Khan Development Network (AKDN), archaeologists, historians and diplomats attended the event, which was organized with the support of the “Cercle des Amis du Pakistan”.

Dr. Didier briefed the audience on the history of the archeological excavations carried out by French archeologists in Pakistan. She gave an update on the latest research resulting from ten years of excavations at Chanhu-daro, one of the emblematic sites of the ancient Indus Valley Civilization. She also addressed how the adaptation of ancient populations to river and environmental fluctuations can be a key to understanding the current crises related to climate change and natural disasters that heavily impact South Asia today.

Addressing the audience, Ambassador Mumtaz Zahra Baloch noted the seventy years of cooperation between Pakistan and France in the domain of archeology. She appreciated the contributions made by the French Archeological Mission in Pakistan in research on the Indus Valley Civilization; and in promoting knowledge and competencies amongst local communities and scholars.

The Ambassador also reiterated her warm support for the “Cercle des Amis du Pakistan” for its initiatives in highlighting the cultural richness and diversity of Pakistan.

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From Bank Lines to Bus Seats: Bold Lessons in Courtesy, Courage, and Everyday Survival

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In the line of bill payers at the bank,

As the fairer sex,

If sick, don’t just be blank

“Ladies first”, “excuse me11, “before you please.”

For deals with unpaid bills,

Ask for goods back, threat if you will,

Repeat the request for a job.

You may make it from the mob,

Instead of standing, share the seat on the bus

Isn’t it much better than making a fuss,

Whatever you do during tug-of-war, do not push the rope

Or you’ll be the laughing stock amidst cries of, “What a dope.”

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