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Andong’s Gwangsan Kim Clan Manuscript Suun Japbang: ‘Yukjjim’ Brings a 500-Year Culinary Tradition to London

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— Special feature for the 2025 Hampton Court Palace Food Festival

LONDON/ANDONG — From 23 to 25 August 2025, the historic grounds of Hampton Court Palace will host a rare encounter with Korea’s early culinary scholarship as the classical cookbook Suun Japbang (需雲雜方) takes the stage in an official programme at the Hampton Court Palace Food Festival. During the festival, Head Housewife (Jongbu) Kim Do-eun of the Gwangsan Kim clan’s Seolwoldang head family in Andong will present a live demonstration of yukjjim, a braised-beef dish interpreted through the principles found in Suun Japbang, inviting European audiences to experience the essence of early-Joseon gastronomy.

A window on the Joseon kitchen: identity and significance of Suun Japbang

Compiled in the early 16th century by the Andong scholar Kim Yu (1491–1555) and later supplemented by his grandson Kim Ryeong (1577–1641), Suun Japbang is a two-volume, one-book manuscript in classical Chinese. It systematises 121 entries spanning brewing, jangs (fermented pastes and soy sauce), kimchi, soups, preservation and even seed sowing—an integrated record of the lifestyle, practical science and aesthetics of a literati household in early Joseon. Since coming to light in 1986, it has been recognised by the academy as one of the earliest extant Korean culinary texts.

Transmitted within the Gwangsan Kim clan of Yean, Andong, the manuscript is now entrusted to the Korean Studies Advancement Centre (Andong) and was designated a “Treasure” on 24 August 2021 under Korea’s national heritage system. The listing records it as a documentary heritage manuscript (one book, twenty-three folios), underscoring that this is far more than a family recipe notebook: it is a state-recognised record of cultural heritage.

The title itself is philosophically charged. “Suun” (需雲) invokes the I Ching’s Hexagram 5 (Xu), traditionally associated with the refined etiquette of eating, drinking and hosting; “Japbang” (雜方) means “various methods”. Together, they amount to a declaration of diverse, elevated culinary methods befitting a cultivated household.

Towards UNESCO Memory of the World

In February 2024, the City of Andong and the Korean Studies Advancement Centre convened a scholarly conference to place Suun Japbang and its companion text Eumsik Dimibang on a pathway to UNESCO’s Memory of the World register. Scholars assessed both works as documentary heritage, considering structure, content, cultural background and contemporary application, and announced a roadmap to publish English translations and distribute them to UNESCO-affiliated bodies.

The strategy is pragmatic: following domestic nomination, the partners intend to seek inscription first on the Asia-Pacific regional list (MOWCAP) in 2026, then progress to the international register — a staged approach designed to strengthen competitiveness in a crowded field.

For context, UNESCO’s Memory of the World programme catalogues humanity’s documentary heritage to promote preservation, accessibility and awareness. Inscription typically brings capacity-building, improved digital access and international visibility. In Korea, coordination among the National Heritage Authority, the Korean National Commission for UNESCO, local government and academia provides the institutional and diplomatic foundations required for a credible bid.

The government has also signalled an expansion of cooperative funding with UNESCO in 2025, a favourable tailwind for international promotion and partnerships around documentary heritage such as Suun Japbang.

“Hands of the head housewife, palates of the world”: spotlight on Kim Do-eun

Kim Do-eun, the 15th Jongbu (head housewife) of the Seolwoldang head family of the Gwangsan Kim clan, leads the Suun Japbang Traditional Food Experience Centre and has spent years translating classical recipes for the modern table. In 2013 she co-founded the Suun Japbang Research Institute to commercialise menus grounded in textual verification, and in 2015 showcased the potential of these 500-year-old recipes through a gala dinner at Seoul’s Michelin-starred La Yeon. Her modern readings of meat and soup preparations — notably Seoyeotang, which foregrounds Dioscorea opposita (Chinese yam) — have drawn critical attention.

She has often argued in interviews that authentic globalisation comes not by diluting tradition to suit foreign palates, but by allowing audiences to encounter the taste of tradition itself. Rooted in the Confucian ethos of ritual filial piety and hospitality (bongjesa jeopbingak), her philosophy animates documentary heritage as a living culture.

Her public engagement is vigorous. At the Andong Mask Dance Festival, the “Jongbu’s Kitchen” programme has attracted over 200 visitors per day, with the Suun Japbang chicken dish Jeon-gye-a proving especially popular. In 2025 she launched a contemporary Jeon-gye-a in collaboration with local restaurateurs — extending both textual translation and hands-on experience as twin wheels of Suun Japbang’s modern life.

Yukjjim in London: from manuscript to table

The centrepiece of the London appearance will be yukjjim. Drawing on the manuscript’s meat-cookery traditions — including lines of technique associated with jang-seasoned meats (“jangyuk”) and noodle-meat dishes (“yukmyeon”) — Kim will present a mature braise that marries soy-based seasoning, aromatics, controlled ageing and low-temperature braising. The aim is not merely to cook meat, but to express the depth of Korea’s fermented jangs while delivering peak texture.

According to the UK programme brief, Kim will demonstrate a modern articulation of yukjjim grounded in principles first recorded in Suun Japbang — translating the symbolism of the Jongbu, a traditional domestic authority, into a public culinary language. In Andong, the dish will prominently feature Andong Hanwoo (Korean native beef). Benefiting from the upper Nakdong River’s relatively dry climate and wide diurnal temperature range, Andong Hanwoo is prized for consistent marbling, resilient texture and a deep, lingering flavour — qualities that align naturally with yukjjim’s precisely judged braise.

Why London, and why now?

The Hampton Court Palace Food Festival, a signature event of the UK bank-holiday weekend, is a meeting-point of historic setting and contemporary gastronomy. Its royal-garden backdrop offers an optimal platform for Korea’s documentary gastronomy to converse directly with European culinary discourse. (Official hours for 2025: 10:00–18:00, 23–25 August.)

Andong, moreover, is a custodian city of the 2010 UNESCO World Heritage inscription “Historic Villages of Korea: Hahoe and Yangdong”. From seowon (Confucian academies), head-family ritual culture and seasonal customs to the culinary practices that supported them, the soil from which Suun Japbang emerged is dense with layered cultural strata. In London, yukjjim becomes the medium through which record and place speak in concert.

Prospects for UNESCO inscription and next steps

Experts cite several strengths: an unbroken transmission of a complete manuscript, rarity as an early private-household cookbook, a dense compendium of fermentation, preservation and health-nourishment knowledge, and a clear genealogical provenance within a single clan. If the 2024 conference roadmap — translation and annotated editions, international networks and staged MOWCAP-to-international inscription — proceeds as planned, observers judge the medium- to long-term prospects encouraging. Key hurdles will include demonstrating outstanding universal value, advancing preservation and access, and broad public engagement.

From a policy perspective, the outlook is constructive. With its 2021 designation as a national “Treasure”, Suun Japbang already stands on firm domestic ground, while the government’s widening of UNESCO-related cooperation funding creates a supportive environment for international advocacy. Priorities now include stabilised conservation and digital archiving, multi-language scholarly apparatus and outreach, and a management plan aligned to international review criteria.

Conclusion: a 500-year recipe, a diplomacy of today

Suun Japbang is both a document of knowledge born in a Joseon-era kitchen and, today, a language of cultural diplomacy at the world’s table. Kim Do-eun’s yukjjim is the terminus of a long journey and the opening sentence of the next. In the gardens of Hampton Court, a distinctly Korean grammar of taste — fermentation and restraint, season and ritual — will meet European sensibilities. The record stirs to life; the dish crosses borders. At the centre stands a book written five centuries ago: Suun Japbang.

Visitor information (for UK readers)

  • Event: Hampton Court Palace Food Festival
  • Dates: 23–25 August 2025, 10:00–18:00
  • Venue: Hampton Court Palace, London

Special programme: “Suun Japbang Showcase” — live demonstration of yukjjim by Head Housewife Kim Do-eun and an introduction to Korea’s classical culinary texts.

Art & Culture

Joy and Sorrow: A Reflection on Inequality and Human Connection by Zeenat Iqbal Hakimjee from Harmony

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The begum dashes by in –

– Her flashing car,

To meet a companion at –

– A destination afar.

At a meeting point

In a parlour,

Five boys voraciously

In a corner ice Cream devour,

The silk saris and golden bangles

Glittering in the light,

The high heels and the leather purses

Presenting a sight;

The beggar in his torn

and tattered assemblage,

Spreads out his palm

And asks for patronage.

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Art & Culture

“Confessions Beneath the Barrel” A city mourns as a poet captures the terror within a man’s own making—a chilling reflection on Karachi’s fractured heart.

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Possessed by the devil,

I strode out to do evil.

With enmity written large on my face,

Somebody has to be dad in deaths embrace.

Just yesterday a child became an orphan,

And a couple were worried by the ransoms burden.

The fetters of depression behold the city,

Where everyday criminals like me enter captivity.

Karachi, Karachi of yore

Shall hot surface will not surface

Whilst I trigger my double barrel bore.

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‘A very deep bond of friendship’: The surprising story of Van Gogh’s guardian angel

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At the toughest, most turbulent time of his life, the Post-Impressionist painter was supported by an unlikely soulmate, Joseph Roulin, a postman in Arles. A new exhibition explores this close friendship, and how it benefited art history.

On 23 December, 1888, the day that Vincent van Gogh mutilated his ear and presented the severed portion to a sex worker, he was tended to by an unlikely soulmate: the postman Joseph Roulin.

A rare figure of stability during Van Gogh’s mentally turbulent two years in Arles, in the South of France, Roulin ensured that he received care in a psychiatric hospital, and visited him while he was there, writing to the artist’s brother Theo to update him on his condition. He paid Van Gogh’s rent while he was being cared for, and spent the entire day with him when he was discharged two weeks later. “Roulin… has a silent gravity and a tenderness for me as an old soldier might have for a young one,” Van Gogh wrote to Theo the following April, describing Roulin as “such a good soul and so wise and so full of feeling”.

Paying homage to this touching relationship is the exhibition Van Gogh: The Roulin Family Portraits, opening at the MFA Boston, USA, on 30 March, before moving on to its co-organiser, the Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam, in October. This is the first exhibition devoted to portraits of all five members of the Roulin family. It features more than 20 paintings by Van Gogh, alongside works by important influences on the Dutch artist, including 17th-Century Dutch masters Rembrandt and Frans Hals, and the French artist Paul Gauguin, who lived for two months with Van Gogh in Arles.

Roulin wasn’t just a model for Van Gogh – this was someone with whom he developed a very deep bond of friendship – Katie Hanson

“So much of what I was hoping for with this exhibition is a human story,” co-curator Katie Hanson (MFA Boston) tells the BBC. “The exhibition really highlights that Roulin isn’t just a model for him – this was someone with whom he developed a very deep bond of friendship.” Van Gogh’s tumultuous relationship with Gauguin, and the fallout between them that most likely precipitated the ear incident, has tended to overshadow his narrative, but Roulin offered something more constant and uncomplicated. We see this in the portraits – the open honesty with which he returns Van Gogh’s stare, and the mutual respect and affection that radiate from the canvas.

A new life in Arles

Van Gogh moved from Paris to Arles in February 1888, believing the brighter light and intense colours would better his art, and that southerners were “more artistic” in appearance, and ideal subjects to paint. Hanson emphasises Van Gogh’s “openness to possibility” at this time, and his feeling, still relatable today, of being a new face in town. “We don’t have to hit on our life’s work on our first try; we might also be seeking and searching for our next direction, our next place,” she says. And it’s in this spirit that Van Gogh, a newcomer with “a big heart“, welcomed new connections.

Courtesy Museum of Fine Arts, Boston A pen, ink and chalk portrait of Roulin, 1888, is among the exhibits in the show Van Gogh: The Roulin Family Portraits (Credit: Courtesy Museum of Fine Arts, Boston)
A pen, ink and chalk portrait of Roulin, 1888, is among the exhibits in the show Van Gogh: The Roulin Family Portraits (Credit: Courtesy Museum of Fine Arts, Boston)

Before moving into the yellow house next door, now known so well inside and out, Van Gogh rented a room above the Café de la Gare. The bar was frequented by Joseph Roulin, who lived on the same street and worked at the nearby railway station supervising the loading and unloading of post. Feeling that his strength lay in portrait painting, but struggling to find people to pose for him, Van Gogh was delighted when the characterful postman, who drank a sizeable portion of his earnings at the café, agreed to pose for him, asking only to be paid in food and drink.

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Between August 1888 and April 1889, Van Gogh made six portraits of Roulin, symbols of companionship and hope that contrast with the motifs of lonelinessdespair and impending doom seen in some of his other works. In each, Roulin is dressed in his blue postal worker’s uniform, embellished with gold buttons and braid, the word “postes” proudly displayed on his cap. Roulin’s stubby nose and ruddy complexion, flushed with years of drinking, made him a fascinating muse for the painter, who described him as “a more interesting man than many people”.

Courtesy Museum of Fine Arts, Boston Portrait of Joseph Roulin, 1889 – Van Gogh's paintings of the Roulin family were full of warmth and optimism (Credit: Courtesy Museum of Fine Arts, Boston)
Portrait of Joseph Roulin, 1889 – Van Gogh’s paintings of the Roulin family were full of warmth and optimism (Credit: Courtesy Museum of Fine Arts, Boston)

Roulin was just 12 years older than Van Gogh, but he became a guiding light and father figure to the lonely painter – on account of Roulin’s generous beard and apparent wisdom, Van Gogh nicknamed him Socrates. Born into a wealthy family, Van Gogh belonged to a very different social class from Roulin, but was taken with his “strong peasant nature” and forbearance when times were hard. Roulin was a proud and garrulous republican, and when Van Gogh saw him singing La Marseillaisehe noticed how painterly he was, “like something out of Delacroix, out of Daumier”. He saw in him the spirit of the working man, describing his voice as possessing “a distant echo of the clarion of revolutionary France”.

The friendship soon opened the door to four further sitters: Roulin’s wife, Augustine, and their three children. We meet their 17-year-old son Armand, an apprentice blacksmith wearing the traces of his first facial hair, and appearing uneasy with the painter’s attention; his younger brother, 11-year-old schoolboy Camille, described in the exhibition catalogue as “squirming in his chair”; and Marcelle, the couple’s chubby-cheeked baby, who, Roulin writes, “makes the whole house happy”. Each painting represents a different stage of life, and each sitter was gifted their portrait. In total, Van Gogh created 26 portraits of the Roulins, a significant output for one family, rarely seen in art history.

Van Gogh had once hoped to be a father and husband himself, and his relationship with the Roulin family let him experience some of that joy. In a letter to Theo, he described Roulin playing with baby Marcelle: “It was touching to see him with his children on the last day, above all with the very little one when he made her laugh and bounce on his knees and sang for her.” Outside these walls, Van Gogh often experienced hostility from the locals, who described him as “the redheaded madman”, and even petitioned for his confinement. By contrast, the Roulins accepted his mental illness, and their home offered a place of safety and understanding.

The relationship, however, was far from one-sided. This educated visitor with his unusual Dutch accent was unlike anyone Roulin had ever met, and offered “a different kind of interaction”, explains Hanson. “He’s new in town, new to Roulin’s stories and he’s going to have new stories to tell.” Roulin enjoys offering advice – on furnishing the yellow house for example – and when, in the summer of 1888, Madame Roulin returned to her home town to deliver Marcelle, Roulin, left alone, found Van Gogh welcome company.

Roulin also got the rare opportunity to have portraits painted for free, and when, the following year, he was away for work in Marseille, it comforted him that baby Marcelle could still see his portrait hanging above her cradle. His fondness for Van Gogh shines through their correspondence. “Continue to take good care of yourself, follow the advice of your good Doctor and you will see your complete recovery to the satisfaction of your relatives and your friends,” he wrote to him from Marseille, signing off: “Marcelle sends you a big kiss.”

Van Gogh lived a further 19 months, producing a staggering 70 paintings in his last 70 days, and leaving one of art history’s most treasured legacies

Van Gogh’s portraits placed him in the heart of the family home. In his five versions of La Berceuse, meaning both “lullaby” and “the woman who rocks the cradle”, Mme Roulin held a string device, fashioned by Van Gogh, that rocked the baby’s cradle beyond the canvas, permitting the pair the peace to complete the artwork. The joyful background colours – green, blue, yellow or red – vary from one family member to another. Exuberant floral backdrops, reserved for the parents, come later, conveying happiness and affection – a blooming that took place since the earlier, plainer portraits.

Art history has also greatly benefitted from the freedom this relationship granted Van Gogh to experiment with portraiture, and to develop his own style with its delineated shapes, bold, glowing colours, and thick wavy strokes that make the forms vibrate with life. In the security of this friendship, he overturned the conventions of portrait painting, prioritising an emotional response to his subject, resolving “not to render what I have before my eyes” but to “express myself forcefully”, and to paint Roulin, he told Theo, “as I feel him”.

Had Van Gogh not felt Roulin’s unwavering support, he may not have survived the series of devastating breakdowns that began in December 1888 when he took a razor to his ear. With the care of those close to him, he lived a further 19 months, producing a staggering 70 paintings in his last 70 days, and leaving one of art history’s most treasured legacies.

Like the intimate portraits he created in Arles, the exhibition courses with optimism. “I hope being with these works of art and exploring his creative process – and his ways of creating connection – will be a heartwarming story,” Hanson says. Far from “shying away from the sadness” of this period of Van Gogh’s life, she says, the exhibition bears witness to the power of supportive relationships and “the reality that sadness and hope can coexist”.

Van Gogh: The Roulin Family Portraits is at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston from 30 March to 7 September 2025, and at the Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam from 3 October 2025 to 11 January 2026.

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