— Special feature for the 2025 Hampton Court Palace Food Festival
LONDON/ANDONG — From 23 to 25 August 2025, the historic grounds of Hampton Court Palace will host a rare encounter with Korea’s early culinary scholarship as the classical cookbook Suun Japbang (需雲雜方) takes the stage in an official programme at the Hampton Court Palace Food Festival. During the festival, Head Housewife (Jongbu) Kim Do-eun of the Gwangsan Kim clan’s Seolwoldang head family in Andong will present a live demonstration of yukjjim, a braised-beef dish interpreted through the principles found in Suun Japbang, inviting European audiences to experience the essence of early-Joseon gastronomy.
A window on the Joseon kitchen: identity and significance of Suun Japbang
Compiled in the early 16th century by the Andong scholar Kim Yu (1491–1555) and later supplemented by his grandson Kim Ryeong (1577–1641), Suun Japbang is a two-volume, one-book manuscript in classical Chinese. It systematises 121 entries spanning brewing, jangs (fermented pastes and soy sauce), kimchi, soups, preservation and even seed sowing—an integrated record of the lifestyle, practical science and aesthetics of a literati household in early Joseon. Since coming to light in 1986, it has been recognised by the academy as one of the earliest extant Korean culinary texts.
Transmitted within the Gwangsan Kim clan of Yean, Andong, the manuscript is now entrusted to the Korean Studies Advancement Centre (Andong) and was designated a “Treasure” on 24 August 2021 under Korea’s national heritage system. The listing records it as a documentary heritage manuscript (one book, twenty-three folios), underscoring that this is far more than a family recipe notebook: it is a state-recognised record of cultural heritage.
The title itself is philosophically charged. “Suun” (需雲) invokes the I Ching’s Hexagram 5 (Xu), traditionally associated with the refined etiquette of eating, drinking and hosting; “Japbang” (雜方) means “various methods”. Together, they amount to a declaration of diverse, elevated culinary methods befitting a cultivated household.
Towards UNESCO Memory of the World
In February 2024, the City of Andong and the Korean Studies Advancement Centre convened a scholarly conference to place Suun Japbang and its companion text Eumsik Dimibang on a pathway to UNESCO’s Memory of the World register. Scholars assessed both works as documentary heritage, considering structure, content, cultural background and contemporary application, and announced a roadmap to publish English translations and distribute them to UNESCO-affiliated bodies.
The strategy is pragmatic: following domestic nomination, the partners intend to seek inscription first on the Asia-Pacific regional list (MOWCAP) in 2026, then progress to the international register — a staged approach designed to strengthen competitiveness in a crowded field.
For context, UNESCO’s Memory of the World programme catalogues humanity’s documentary heritage to promote preservation, accessibility and awareness. Inscription typically brings capacity-building, improved digital access and international visibility. In Korea, coordination among the National Heritage Authority, the Korean National Commission for UNESCO, local government and academia provides the institutional and diplomatic foundations required for a credible bid.
The government has also signalled an expansion of cooperative funding with UNESCO in 2025, a favourable tailwind for international promotion and partnerships around documentary heritage such as Suun Japbang.
“Hands of the head housewife, palates of the world”: spotlight on Kim Do-eun
Kim Do-eun, the 15th Jongbu (head housewife) of the Seolwoldang head family of the Gwangsan Kim clan, leads the Suun Japbang Traditional Food Experience Centre and has spent years translating classical recipes for the modern table. In 2013 she co-founded the Suun Japbang Research Institute to commercialise menus grounded in textual verification, and in 2015 showcased the potential of these 500-year-old recipes through a gala dinner at Seoul’s Michelin-starred La Yeon. Her modern readings of meat and soup preparations — notably Seoyeotang, which foregrounds Dioscorea opposita (Chinese yam) — have drawn critical attention.
She has often argued in interviews that authentic globalisation comes not by diluting tradition to suit foreign palates, but by allowing audiences to encounter the taste of tradition itself. Rooted in the Confucian ethos of ritual filial piety and hospitality (bongjesa jeopbingak), her philosophy animates documentary heritage as a living culture.
Her public engagement is vigorous. At the Andong Mask Dance Festival, the “Jongbu’s Kitchen” programme has attracted over 200 visitors per day, with the Suun Japbang chicken dish Jeon-gye-a proving especially popular. In 2025 she launched a contemporary Jeon-gye-a in collaboration with local restaurateurs — extending both textual translation and hands-on experience as twin wheels of Suun Japbang’s modern life.
Yukjjim in London: from manuscript to table
The centrepiece of the London appearance will be yukjjim. Drawing on the manuscript’s meat-cookery traditions — including lines of technique associated with jang-seasoned meats (“jangyuk”) and noodle-meat dishes (“yukmyeon”) — Kim will present a mature braise that marries soy-based seasoning, aromatics, controlled ageing and low-temperature braising. The aim is not merely to cook meat, but to express the depth of Korea’s fermented jangs while delivering peak texture.
According to the UK programme brief, Kim will demonstrate a modern articulation of yukjjim grounded in principles first recorded in Suun Japbang — translating the symbolism of the Jongbu, a traditional domestic authority, into a public culinary language. In Andong, the dish will prominently feature Andong Hanwoo (Korean native beef). Benefiting from the upper Nakdong River’s relatively dry climate and wide diurnal temperature range, Andong Hanwoo is prized for consistent marbling, resilient texture and a deep, lingering flavour — qualities that align naturally with yukjjim’s precisely judged braise.
Why London, and why now?
The Hampton Court Palace Food Festival, a signature event of the UK bank-holiday weekend, is a meeting-point of historic setting and contemporary gastronomy. Its royal-garden backdrop offers an optimal platform for Korea’s documentary gastronomy to converse directly with European culinary discourse. (Official hours for 2025: 10:00–18:00, 23–25 August.)
Andong, moreover, is a custodian city of the 2010 UNESCO World Heritage inscription “Historic Villages of Korea: Hahoe and Yangdong”. From seowon (Confucian academies), head-family ritual culture and seasonal customs to the culinary practices that supported them, the soil from which Suun Japbang emerged is dense with layered cultural strata. In London, yukjjim becomes the medium through which record and place speak in concert.
Prospects for UNESCO inscription and next steps
Experts cite several strengths: an unbroken transmission of a complete manuscript, rarity as an early private-household cookbook, a dense compendium of fermentation, preservation and health-nourishment knowledge, and a clear genealogical provenance within a single clan. If the 2024 conference roadmap — translation and annotated editions, international networks and staged MOWCAP-to-international inscription — proceeds as planned, observers judge the medium- to long-term prospects encouraging. Key hurdles will include demonstrating outstanding universal value, advancing preservation and access, and broad public engagement.
From a policy perspective, the outlook is constructive. With its 2021 designation as a national “Treasure”, Suun Japbang already stands on firm domestic ground, while the government’s widening of UNESCO-related cooperation funding creates a supportive environment for international advocacy. Priorities now include stabilised conservation and digital archiving, multi-language scholarly apparatus and outreach, and a management plan aligned to international review criteria.
Conclusion: a 500-year recipe, a diplomacy of today
Suun Japbang is both a document of knowledge born in a Joseon-era kitchen and, today, a language of cultural diplomacy at the world’s table. Kim Do-eun’s yukjjim is the terminus of a long journey and the opening sentence of the next. In the gardens of Hampton Court, a distinctly Korean grammar of taste — fermentation and restraint, season and ritual — will meet European sensibilities. The record stirs to life; the dish crosses borders. At the centre stands a book written five centuries ago: Suun Japbang.
Visitor information (for UK readers)
- Event: Hampton Court Palace Food Festival
- Dates: 23–25 August 2025, 10:00–18:00
- Venue: Hampton Court Palace, London
Special programme: “Suun Japbang Showcase” — live demonstration of yukjjim by Head Housewife Kim Do-eun and an introduction to Korea’s classical culinary texts.