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Inside Italy’s secret mosaic school

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Hidden in a quiet Italian town is one of the world’s most unique art schools – and a rewarding destination for curious travellers.

Walking the corridors of the Scuola dei Mosaicisti del Friuli (Friuli Mosaicists School) on a Friday morning, the first thing I noticed was the silence. I had expected the chatter of students, the hum of conversation between teachers, the shuffle of footsteps. Instead, the air was still, broken only by the occasional tap of a hammer and the delicate click of tiles sliding against tiles. 

The second thing was the mosaics – everywhere. In the entrance courtyard, where a full-scale tessellated version of Picasso’s Guernica greets visitors. In the hallways, where tiled reproductions of artworks like Michelangelo’s Pietà and the Virgin and Child from Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia line the walls. Mosaics climbed across flat surfaces and curled around corners, turning the entire building into a living archive of pattern, precision and patience.

Those same qualities were on full display inside the classrooms where students sat bent over their workstations, eyes locked on the fragments beneath their fingers. Mosaic, I would learn over the course of my visit, demands this kind of concentration: a craft shaped not just by hand and material, but by a collected atmosphere where meticulousness can thrive.

The school has been nurturing this kind of dedication for more than a century. Founded in 1922 in Spilimbergo, a small town of medieval lanes, a stately castle and Renaissance palazzi in Italy’s north-eastern Friuli-Venezia Giulia region, it was originally created to provide formal training to local artisans and preserve the area’s ancient mosaic tradition — one that dates to the Roman Empire and has left its mark on everything from Byzantine basilicas to modern monuments. 

Marianna Cerini Around 40 students are admitted to the three-year programme each year (Credit: Marianna Cerini)
Around 40 students are admitted to the three-year programme each year (Credit: Marianna Cerini)

Today it’s the only academic institution in the world entirely devoted to the mosaic arts. Students of all ages, from high school graduates to mid-career creatives, come from across the globe to enrol in its rigorous three-year programme, during which they learn historical mosaic techniques – from intricate Greco-Roman patterns to luminous Byzantine compositions — before experimenting with more contemporary, freeform designs.

In recent years, the school has also become a destination in its own right, drawing design-loving travellers intrigued by the singular world of mosaics to explore its grounds on both public and private tours. Some 40,000 visitors do so annually, making the Scuola Mosaicisti one of the most visited sites in Friuli. 

Plan your trip:

How to visit: The school is open year-round and welcomes both guided and independent visitors. Entry costs €3. Daily tours (including weekends) can be booked via the Spilimbergo Tourist Office.

Want to learn?: Short mosaic courses (four-days to a week) run throughout the year. Designed for beginners, they offer a rare hands-on experience. A minimum of five participants is required. More info here.

Where to stay: Try Relais La Torre, a charming B&B in Splimbergo’s old town. The three-star Hotel Consul is another central option, with nine rooms and studios plus a restaurant serving traditional Friulian fare.

How to get there: Spilimbergo doesn’t have a train station. Rent a car from Venice or Trieste – each just around an hour away.

While around 40 students are admitted to the three-year programme each year, no more than 15 complete the full curriculum, earning the title of maestri mosaicisti (mosaic masters). Of those, only a select group of six go on to do a fourth year – a sort of master’s degree – to further sharpen their skills.

“It takes a lot of hard work and discipline to become a maestro mosaicista,” said Gian Piero Brovedani, the school’s director. “This is an art that’s both humbling and exacting. It teaches you to slow down, pay attention and find beauty in repetition.”

Marianna Cerini Visitors can sign up for short courses to get a hands-on introduction to the art (Credit: Marianna Cerini)
Visitors can sign up for short courses to get a hands-on introduction to the art (Credit: Marianna Cerini)

Indeed, mosaic-making is an incredibly precise specialty. It requires the artist to painstakingly place together hundreds, sometimes thousands, of small pieces called tesserae (which can measure as little as 0.5cm) to form intricate patterns and lifelike scenes. Made from marble, glass, smalto (opaque glass tiles) and even shells, these tiny inlays demand thorough craftsmanship and an intuitive sense of rhythm and placement.

As Brovedani noted, it’s also deeply collaborative. Mosaicists generally work solo on sections of large compositions, but the true effect of that work emerges only when viewed in unison. “It’s a craft that asks you to ‘erase’ yourself, in a way,” said third-year teacher Cristina de Leoni. “One tile on its own doesn’t say very much, but together with others, it creates an artwork. There’s no ego in mosaic-making.”

This is an art that’s both humbling and exacting. It teaches you to slow down, pay attention and find beauty in repetition – Gian Piero Brovedani

Glancing at the craft’s rich history – which dates to Mesopotamia in the 3rd millennium BCE and stretches across countries and cultures, from the Greeks to the Maya, the Byzantine Empire to the Islamic world  – it’s easy to see her point. There are no Giottos or Raphaels in the mosaic arts, no singular Mona Lisa. Instead, this expressive form has always relied on anonymous virtuosity, walking a fine line between art and artisanship.

That’s been all the truer in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, where mosaicists never stopped honing the craft, even as it slipped from the spotlight from the Renaissance onwards. With its abundance of stones from the Tagliamento (Friuli’s main river) and close cultural ties to Venice – a city long at the epicentre of European art and craftsmanship – the region quietly became a stronghold of mosaic tradition, its skilled artists sought after across continents. In the 19th Century, Friulian artist Gian Domenico Facchina even helped usher mosaics into the modern era, devising the rovescio su carta (reverse on paper) method to assemble panels off-site – a game-changer for scale and speed. The foyer of Paris’ Opéra Garnier was the first to showcase it.

Marianna Cerini Mosaics dot the streets of Spilimbergo, transforming the town into an open-air gallery of colour, craft and tradition (Credit: Marianna Cerini)
Mosaics dot the streets of Spilimbergo, transforming the town into an open-air gallery of colour, craft and tradition (Credit: Marianna Cerini)

Since then, Friulan mosaicists – most trained in Spilimbergo – have made their mark worldwide: from Rome’s iconic Foro Italico sports complex to the New York City subway station at the World Trade Center; from the dome of Jerusalem’s Church of the Holy Sepulchre to Tokyo galleries. These works are proof of a tradition that continues to evolve, tessera by tessera.

“The duality of mosaics makes them endlessly fascinating,” said Purnima Allinger, a third-year student who left a marketing career in Berlin to pursue mosaics. “It’s a precise and meditative-like craft, but also expressive and emotional like art. You’re always shifting between the two – it keeps you completely engaged.”

Amos Carcano, a maestro mosaicista from Switzerland, agrees. “You work with your hands, but you’re also constantly inventing, playing with texture, colour and patterns. Contemporary mosaics push those boundaries even further. It’s a tradition, but it’s also wide open.”

Carcano is currently one of 10 alumni working on one of the school’s most ambitious pieces yet: a 1,265-sq-m mosaic floor for the courtyard depicting Friuli’s native flora and fauna – a project set to take more than a year.

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It’s not just maestri who create for the school. All those mosaics I saw as I toured the premises? They are by past and present students. “We think of the school as a bottega – a workshop,” says Danila Venuto, who teaches mosaic history. “And in a workshop, you learn by doing. It’s only natural that the students are put to work as soon as they start learning the ABC of mosaic. This is a craft that’s mastered and kept alive through making.”

Marianna Cerini At the Scuola dei Mosaicisti del Friuli, students have been mastering the ancient art of mosaic-making since 1922 (Credit: Marianna Cerini)
At the Scuola dei Mosaicisti del Friuli, students have been mastering the ancient art of mosaic-making since 1922 (Credit: Marianna Cerini)

And increasingly, you can learn even as a visitor. The school offers corsi brevi – short courses ranging from four-day intensives to week-long programmes – to give travellers a hands-on introduction to the art. Meanwhile, the tours include access to an archive of more than 800 mosaic works and the opportunity to glimpse into the classrooms where students and maestri work side by side. Leading each visit is usually one of the 79 guides that have specifically been trained by the school, or, for a more local flavour, Spilimbergo’s volunteer city guides, who often pair the experience with a stroll through the town.

The experience doesn’t stop at the school gates. Spilimbergo itself is full of mosaics: decorating the interiors of its imposing Roman-Gothic Duomo, embedded in shopfronts, woven into restaurant floors and tucked into hidden corners of the old town. On its main thoroughfare, Corso Roma, mosaic shops and showrooms display beautiful creations from the school’s alumni for purchase; while on the outskirts of town, Fabbrica di Mosaici Mario Donà, a historic family-run kiln that moved from Murano to Spilimbergo in 1991, can be visited by appointment to see where the enamels for the mosaics are made.

Travel just a little further and you’ll reach the source material that has long shaped the school’s practice: the grave – smooth, river-washed stones carried by the Tagliamento. Nearby lies the Magredi, a stark plain formed by gravel brought in by two local streams, the Cellina and the Meduna. Though it may look barren, it teems with a variety of flora and fauna, from wildflowers to birds of prey – the very subjects featured in countless Friulian mosaics, including the school’s soon-to-be-completed outdoor floor.

“People from Spilimbergo – and from Friuli at large – are very proud of this centuries-old tradition,” said Venuto. “Mosaic-making is part of our cultural DNA, a true Friulian legacy.”

And in this corner of Friuli, if you’re curious, you’re welcome to be part of it. 

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Art & Culture

Moments of Bliss: A Gentle Reflection on Nature’s Simple Joys by Zeenat Iqbal Hakimjee from Harmony

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The mild rays filtering

Through the tree;

The winter sun beaming

In glee,

The lush green grass

Beneath me,

Forming a carpet softly;

The birds chirping in the trees,

The insects frolicking from here to there

The morning dew drops thinning in the warm air;

An apple in my hand

I keep the doctor away;

What more can one ask for

I to myself say.

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Art & Culture

Iconic Indian comic publisher loses precious drawings in fire

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For generations of Indians, the Amar Chitra Katha comic books have been a gateway tostories on religion, mythology and history.

Amar Chitra Katha – which loosely translates as immortal illustrated stories – started publishing in 1967, using engaging visuals and simple language to retell religious parables, scriptures and folk tales in comic form.

Nearly six decades later, the comic remains popular, especially among children.

But part of that illustrated legacy has gone up in smoke. On 1 October, a massive fire broke out at the warehouse of Amar Chitra Katha in Bhiwandi, a suburb of Mumbai, reportedly caused by a short circuit.

It took firefighters four days to control the blaze. By then, the damage was done.

Nearly 600,000 books of Amar Chitra Katha and its sister publication Tinkle, a more light-hearted illustrated magazine for children, along with special edition box sets and merchandise, were destroyed, according to the publication’s spokesperson.

The damaged material included more than 200 original hand-drawn illustrations from the 1960s and 1970s. The original positives on transparent film and other archival materials were also lost.

“Most of the positives have been preserved digitally, but the original hand-drawn artworks were stored in the warehouse. They were priceless. We never sold them, so we don’t know the actual cost. They were preserved with great care,” Damini Batham, Head of Marketing at Amar Chitra Katha and Tinkle, told BBC Marathi.

While the financial loss caused by the fire is yet to be ascertained, the emotional loss weighs heavy on comic book lovers in India.

“Even today, one can instantly recognise an Amar Chitra Katha image,” says writer and comic book lover Ganesh Matkari.

“These books played a vital role in cultivating a love for reading among children. Their simple language and engaging visuals made complex stories accessible.”

Amar Chitra Katha was started by Anant Pai, a junior engineer with The Times of India newspaper. He was associated with Indrajal Comics, owned by the newspaper group, which published comic books on American writer Lee Falk’s popular heroes Phantom and Mandrake.

The idea for Amar Chitra Katha came to Mr Pai by chance when he was watching a quiz show at a shop that sold television sets in Delhi.

He noticed that the participants could answer questions on Greek mythology, but failed to answer questions on Indian epics and mythology.

Upset at what he saw, Mr Pai set out to create comic books based on Indian stories, according to his illustrated biography released by Amar Chitra Katha in 2012, a year after his death.

“The stories have a moral core and are used by parents and schools to teach Indian heritage worldwide,” says Ms Batham.

The first ten issues featured Western fairy tales like Cinderella and Snow White. But it was the 11th issue on the Hindu deity Krishna, released in 1970, that marked a turning point for Amar Chitra Katha.

Illustrated by Ram Waeerkar, the Krishna issue set the tone for future publications.

Mr Waeerkar, known for his fine lines, expressive faces and dramatic compositions, went on to illustrate more than 90 comic books for the publication.

Following Krishna’s success, Amar Chitra Katha expanded to include many more stories based on Indian mythological and historical characters such as Rama, Shakuntala, Savitri, Bheeshma, Hanuman, Chanakya, Buddha, Shivaji and Ashoka.

“These comics inspired me to become a cartoonist,” renowned illustrator Alok Nirantar, who identifies as “a lifelong fan” of Amar Chitra Katha, told BBC Marathi.

“Everyone holds a soft corner for Amar Chitra Katha. Hearing about the loss of original documents is heartbreaking. Even in the digital age, the original artwork held unmatched value.”

In 1980, the publication launched Tinkle. The comic magazine was an insistent hit especially among children, with characters like Suppandi and Shikari Shambu becoming household names.

Amar Chitra Katha and Tinkle continue to be published in several languages including English, Hindi, Tamil, Malayalam and Bengali.

They sell around 4.5 million print copies a year, up from around 3 million around a decade ago, and the apps where their digital versions can be accessed have half a million users globally, an executive of the company told the BBC.

Gayatri Chandrasekharan, editor-in-chief of Tinkle, says, “October to February is our peak season. We were set to participate in several events including Diwali fairs, book festivals, and comic cons. Everything printed in the last six months was lost in the fire.”

But Amar Chitra Katha’s editor Reena Puri remains hopeful.

“We faced a similar fire in 1994. We rose from the ashes like a phoenix then, and we will do so again. The love of our readers and the determination of our team will help us rebuild,” she says.

The 1994 fire, suspected to be caused by a short circuit in Mumbai’s India Book House office, which published Amar Chitra Katha back then, damaged around 3,000 reference books and the artwork and scripts for several unreleased editions.

Ms Puri sees this as an opportunity to innovate through digital platforms. “Our library of over 1,500 books is now available digitally through apps,” she adds.

Yet for art lovers, the loss is irreplaceable. Any exhibition of the original artworks is no longer a possibility.

“We rarely get to see original works by legends like Bal Thackeray [who eventually became a popular political figure] or RK Laxman,” Mr Nirantar laments. “Now, with Amar Chitra Katha’s originals gone, future generations may never see these masterpieces firsthand.”

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Art & Culture

Joy and Sorrow: A Reflection on Inequality and Human Connection by Zeenat Iqbal Hakimjee from Harmony

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The begum dashes by in –

– Her flashing car,

To meet a companion at –

– A destination afar.

At a meeting point

In a parlour,

Five boys voraciously

In a corner ice Cream devour,

The silk saris and golden bangles

Glittering in the light,

The high heels and the leather purses

Presenting a sight;

The beggar in his torn

and tattered assemblage,

Spreads out his palm

And asks for patronage.

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